When the Swedish Chef saw his first paycheck... |
Here is a story about how there are too few cooks to go around to all the nice restaurants that have opened up in foodie-centric urban centers over the past five years or so.
Whether you call them aspirational or ambitious or chef-driven, these are the restaurants that lead the food world, and all of them report that hiring is a pain point. Up the scale from fast food or casual chains like Applebee’s, they range from seasonal cafes and wine bars to the priciest and most heralded establishments. Patrick O’Connell, the chef and owner at the Inn at Little Washington in Virginia, said even the prestigious Relais & Châteaux properties no longer attract enough talent; most of them now have a full-time recruiter on the payroll.
I went through culinary school, at not insignificant expense, and ended up running a kitchen for a year in a new restaurant, where part of my responsibilities were to staff it. The problem is kind of obvious and baked into the industry: long hours, few days off, supervisors/owners who will exploit you without blinking, hard repetitive work, uncomfortable working conditions, co-workers who either
- don't really speak English
- have drug/mental issues
- can't do the work very well
- students/hobos who are just briefly passing through or
- all of the above.
The #1 prime reason that allows the labor pool to stay shallow and muddy: low, low pay, usually not far from minimum wage.
It's easy to defend the industry by saying, "but that's the way it's always been!" True, it's always paid little and engages in a militaristic culture to engender loyalty and team work. However, everything around it has changed.
- Cities are a lot less livable for poor people with increasing income inequality. It's not that you can't have a "lifestyle" on a cook's pay in NYC as the NYT article says, but you literally can not both house and feed yourself at the same time on a cook's pay.
- Restaurant food is cheaper (accounting for inflation) and more ubiquitous than ever before. The price have not kept up, and the pressure on profits has to land somewhere.
- Quicker communication via the Internet and competition for a limited work force has made it nonsensical for a young cook to settle for bad pay and bad treatment.
The current state of America's chefs and customers. |
But it cuts to a bigger more problematic trend. Food is undervalued, there are too many restaurants, and the traditional foodways of previous generations have been eroded, perhaps past the point of return. I have friends who eat out every day, order delivery when they don't, purchase prepared foods to zap at home, and find cooking anything other than a bowl of cereal as too much of a hassle. My mom was a horrible cook, but bottom line she was a cook. Part of my motivation in attending culinary school was to cook professionally before I quickly burned out from the low pay, long hours and insane boss, but another part of me wanted to learn how to feed myself and my children, a knowledge base that was not communicated to me like it was from my great grandmother to my grandmother (who made the most knee-weakening matzoh brei imaginable.)
The solution is what Danny Meyer has figured out: raise the damn prices, pay people what they need and deserve, and accept potentially lower profits and/or go out of business. With fewer cheap restaurants to serve us, perhaps a few people will have to clear their ovens of stored stuff and figure out how to cook something beyond instant ramen.
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WEEKLY AVERAGE: 2786
In my mind this was a good eating week, but looking at the average, I could have been a little bit more conservative. Guess we'll see what the scale says next week to see how hard I need to push against this perception.
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MONDAY COUNT: 2730
MONDAY COUNT: 2730
SLEPT: 10pm-6am, 8 hrs
AM SNACK: 6:30am, iced green tea
BREAKFAST: 10am, apple/beet/celery/carrot/ cayenne/cucumber/ginger juice, 160 cal
BREAKFAST: noon, steel cut oatmeal, 450 cal
BREAKFAST: 10am, apple/beet/celery/carrot/
LUNCH: 2:30pm, beef patty, chicken soup, momma salad, health salad, pickles, 770 cal
DINNER: 6:15pm, flounder, asparagus, poppa salad with dressing, 650 cal
EVENING SNACK: 7pm popcorn, +/- 400 cal
HUNGER SNACK: 8pm, almond butter & chocolate syrup, +/- 300 cal
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TUESDAY COUNT: 3180
AM SNACK: 5:45 am, iced green tea
BREAKFAST: 7:15am, apple/beet/celery/carrot/ cayenne/cucumber/ginger juice, 160 cal
BREAKFAST 2: 9:30am, fruit smoothie, 450 cal
LUNCH: 1pm, chicken meatballs, lentil curry, steamed string beans, pickles, 700 cal
PM SNACK: 5pm, momma salad 100 cal
DINNER: 6:30pm, beef lomein, poppa salad with dressing, +/- 1000 cal
HUNGER SNACK: 8pm, pocky x4, 760 cal, 8/10
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AM SNACK: 6:15am, iced green tea
BREAKFAST: 7:45am, apple/beet/celery/carrot/ cayenne/cucumber/ginger juice, 160 cal
BREAKFAST 2: 9am, steel cut oatmeal, 450 cal
BIKE SNACK: 10:30am, homemade granola bar, 300 cal
LUNCH: 1:15pm, bacon, poppa salad, 440cal
PM SNACK: 3:30pm, momma salad, cheezits, 310 cal
PM SNACK: 5:30pm, cashews, 250 cal
DINNER: 8:30pm, assorted fancy Japanese food, +/- 1500 cal
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AM SNACK: 4:30am, iced green tea
BREAKFAST: 10am, apple/beet/celery/carrot/ cayenne/cucumber/ginger juice, 160 cal
BREAKFAST 2: 11:30am, Fage yogurt with honey, vanilla, almonds, 450 cal
LUNCH: 1pm, beef patty, momma salad, veggie straws, 760 cal
PM SNACK: 3pm, poppa salad, cheezits, 410 cal
DINNER: 5:30pm, scallops, risotto, brussel sprouts, cake, +/- 1000 cal
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FRIDAY COUNT:2560
DINNER: 6:15pm, flounder, asparagus, poppa salad with dressing, 650 cal
EVENING SNACK: 7pm popcorn, +/- 400 cal
HUNGER SNACK: 8pm, almond butter & chocolate syrup, +/- 300 cal
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TUESDAY COUNT: 3180
SLEPT: 9:30pm-12am, 3am-5:30am 5hrs
AM SNACK: 5:45 am, iced green tea
BREAKFAST: 7:15am, apple/beet/celery/carrot/
BREAKFAST 2: 9:30am, fruit smoothie, 450 cal
LUNCH: 1pm, chicken meatballs, lentil curry, steamed string beans, pickles, 700 cal
PM SNACK: 5pm, momma salad 100 cal
DINNER: 6:30pm, beef lomein, poppa salad with dressing, +/- 1000 cal
HUNGER SNACK: 8pm, pocky x4, 760 cal, 8/10
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BIKE CREDIT: 730 cal
WEDNESDAY COUNT: 2680
WEDNESDAY COUNT: 2680
SLEPT: 8:30pm-12am, 3am-6am 6.5 hrs
AM SNACK: 6:15am, iced green tea
BREAKFAST: 7:45am, apple/beet/celery/carrot/
BREAKFAST 2: 9am, steel cut oatmeal, 450 cal
BIKE SNACK: 10:30am, homemade granola bar, 300 cal
LUNCH: 1:15pm, bacon, poppa salad, 440cal
PM SNACK: 3:30pm, momma salad, cheezits, 310 cal
PM SNACK: 5:30pm, cashews, 250 cal
DINNER: 8:30pm, assorted fancy Japanese food, +/- 1500 cal
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THURSDAY COUNT: 2780
SLEPT: 11:30pm-4am, 4.5 hours
AM SNACK: 4:30am, iced green tea
BREAKFAST: 10am, apple/beet/celery/carrot/
BREAKFAST 2: 11:30am, Fage yogurt with honey, vanilla, almonds, 450 cal
LUNCH: 1pm, beef patty, momma salad, veggie straws, 760 cal
PM SNACK: 3pm, poppa salad, cheezits, 410 cal
DINNER: 5:30pm, scallops, risotto, brussel sprouts, cake, +/- 1000 cal
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FRIDAY COUNT:2560
SLEPT: 10pm-7am, 9 hrs
AM SNACK: 7:15am, iced green tea
BREAKFAST 1: 10am, apple/beet/celery/carrot/ cayenne/cucumber/ginger juice, 160 cal
BREAKFAST 2: 10:30am, granola with whole milk, +/- 450 cal
LUNCH: 3:30pm, sardine & avocado on whole wheat toast, momma salad, pickle, 650 cal
DINNER: 7:30pm, hijiki tofu patty, shrimp tempura, cake, +/- 1000 cal
EVENING SNACK: 11:30pm, slice of pizza, +/- 300 cal
BREAKFAST 1: 10am, apple/beet/celery/carrot/
BREAKFAST 2: 10:30am, granola with whole milk, +/- 450 cal
LUNCH: 3:30pm, sardine & avocado on whole wheat toast, momma salad, pickle, 650 cal
DINNER: 7:30pm, hijiki tofu patty, shrimp tempura, cake, +/- 1000 cal
EVENING SNACK: 11:30pm, slice of pizza, +/- 300 cal
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